Dark Elf Warrior: Figure 198 of 266

Chris Palmer

  For this week, I completed the Dark Elf Warrior from the Dark Elves set.  I’m not particularly thrilled with these sculpts; their spindly, wrapped in layers of clothing, look just doesn’t do it for me. But, the only way to get through them is to start doing them, so here goes.
    I prepped the figure in the usual way; soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish- soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a black-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then glued the washer-mounted figure to a tongue depressor with a couple drops of the Elmer’s glue.  

     I began by painting all his wrapped legs, arms, and torso with Crafter’s Acrylic “Storm Cloud Grey”.  I then painted his cape with Americana “Burgundy Wine”.

     I then gave the whole figure a wash with Iron Wind Metals “Purple” ink.  When the ink was dry, I painted his head, hands, boots, belts, and the armor-like plates on his chest, all with Black.  I then painted his swords, buckles, and the triangular armor parts at his waist, hips, and shoulders, all with Ceramcoat “Metallic Pewter”.

     Next, I gave the triangular armor parts a wash with GW “Badab Black” wash using a wet brush.  I then painted his hair with Americana “Neutral Grey”,  and then did highlighting on his boots, belts, and the armor like plates on his chest all with Americana “Zinc”.

     I then did highlights on his hair with first Folk Art “Porcelain Grey”, and then some White.  Next, I painted his eyes, and then highlighted his face and hands with Folk Art “Dapple Grey”.  I mixed some Apple Barrel “Apple Lavender” with some of the “Porcelain Grey” to highlight  his clothing wraps, and the mixed some of the “Burgundy Wine” with the the “Apple Lavender” and a little Crafters Acrylic “Cherry Blossom Pink” to highlight his cape.  I finished up painting the figure by highlighting all the metal areas with Folk Art “Silver Sterling”. Lastly, I painted his integral base with Ceramcoat “Walnut”
     After the figure had overnight to dry, I gave it a coat of Ceramcoat “Matte Varnish” in the morning.  Later that morning I flocked the base, and that evening I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote.

  Well, for a figure I wasn’t enthusiastic about painting, I’m pleased with the results.  After I started, I was worried he might turn out a little too “pinkish” in coloration, but I think the colors came out suitably muted for him to maintain his menacing look.

Figure 198 of 266; Complete

via All Bones About It http://ift.tt/1PwHlD8
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Author: hawksgameclub

5 thoughts on “Dark Elf Warrior: Figure 198 of 266

  1. Nice Chris. I have not yet painted a resin figure (too much lead left in my collection). But I do have some swarms that I got for my fantasy rules that are resin. I note that you don’t prime yours – is that because they are resin and don’t need it? I also continue to enjoy your project, thank you!

    1. Mark- Thanks for the comments! Just to be clear, these aren’t resin figures I’m painting but a soft plastic material developed by Reaper, which they call “Bones” or “Bonesium”. This material was developed to take acrylic paint directly, without the need for priming. Most spray primers (which I usually use for my metal figures) have chemicals in them which react poorly with the Bones material, causing it to become tacky; so that’s why I don’t use any. When I first started painting the Bones figures, I did use Krylov Camouflage with Fusion “Flat Black” spray paint to prime the Bones, as it was specially designed for use with plastics, and I found it did not cause the tackiness problem. Unfortunately, I can no longer find it in the stores near me. Though ,actually, it forced me to paint the Bones as they were intended, without primer, which I have actually come to enjoy.
      Resin is a material more closely akin to an epoxy medium I believe, so will react differently with spray paint than Bones does. There are many different types of resin, so you would need to check with the manufacture for which kinds of primer they recommended. The resin terrain pieces I have painted in the past (mainly Armorcast) were fine with all kinds of spray paint.

      1. Thanks Chris, Very helpful as I did not know about that material. They (the swarms) are Reaper and white so perhaps I lucked out. I certainly would save me some time if I can avoid that as I get caught this time of year without a good way to prime and varnish figures due to the cold. I know you guys had the big hit of snow too. In the past, when golf season starts in April I got wrapped up and should have been priming ( as you can see in my blog I got the IWM RP Kickstarter and that will take a while. Anyways, hopefully I can now paint some swarms! Much appreciated!

  2. If they’re white and Reaper then you can be pretty sure they’re Bones. So you’re good to go with not using a Primer. You may want to resconsider not varnishing though, as I’d hate to see your paint job get worn off. ,maybe a brush on varnish, or wait until warmer weather to do it.
    If you’d like to learn more about the Bones material, I highly recommend this article on the Reaper forum:

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