Burrowing Behemoth: Bones 4 Darkreach Figure

      This past week I painted the “Burrowing Behemoth” from the Bones 4 Darkreach Expansion.  This is apparently Reaper’s version of an Umber Hulk, so I consulted my old original Monster Manual for color inspiration.   
      I prepped the “Burrowing Behemoth” in the usual way, soaking the pieces in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added; then giving the pieces a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying everything.  I then glued the arms, legs, head, and mouth into place using Gorilla Superglue gel.    I didn’t glue this figure to a washer because I planned to sell it, and it already had an effective circular base build onto it.   The feet didn’t fit as snugly onto the base as I would have liked, so I added a little white glue around the feet and here and there on the base; and sprinkled some sand on the glue, to help hide the feet joints and add a little more texture to the base.   When dry, I shook off the extra sand, and I then affixed the integral base to the top of a large pill bottle with a couple blobs of blue-tac. 
This was another figure with terrible mold lines on hard to reach and uneven surfaces.  Who’s idea was it to have three intersecting mold lines meet in the middle of each eye ball! 
(Oops! I started my black base coat on the leg before I realized I hadn’t taken a “beginning” picture)

     I began by giving the entire figure a base coat with Ceramcoat “Black”.  I then drybrushed it with Americana “Charcoal Grey”, followed by a lighter drybrushing with “Americana “Mississippi Mud”, and lastly a highlight drybrush with a little Americana “Fawn”.

     Next, I wet blended the lighter yellow-grey stomach area using first a base of Ceramcoat “Charcoal”, followed by mixing in a little Americana “Antique Gold” (non-metallic).  I then mixed in some Crafter’s Acrylic “Storm Cloud Grey”, and lastly a little crafter’s Acrylic “Daffodil Yellow”.  After that, I painted the to of the head with a little of the “Charcoal Grey”, and Storm Cloud Grey mixed together, blending it in to the surrounding darker head, and then added some highlights with the base “Storm Cloud Grey”

     I then painted the ridged areas of the forearms with Accent “Real Umber” (Something on an Umber Hulk needed to be painted with an Umber Brown!), and then painted the claws and toenails(?) with Americana “Bittersweet Chocolate”.  After that, I painted the mandibles with Americana “Antique White”.

     Next, I applied a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash to the ridged forearm areas, mandibles, claws, and toenails.  While the wash was drying, I painted the eyes with Reaper MSP “Fresh Blood”, and drybrushed the antenna with DecoArt Dazzling Metaalics “Rich Espresso”, followed by a lighter drybrush of Ceramcoat “Wedding Gold”.  

     When the wash was dry, I highlighted the ridges in the forearm areas with first, Pathfinder MSP “Urgathea Red”, and then mixed it with a little Reaper MSP “Holly Berry” for a lighter highlight.  I then Highlighted the toenails and claws with Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”.  After that, I highlighted the mandibles, first with the base “Antique White”, and then with a little “Americana “Bleached Sand”, and then I highlighted the other mouth bits with some Folk Art “Barn Wood”.  I wrapped things up by repainting the eyes with some Folk Art Color Shift “Red Flash”, and then added small highlight dots with Americana “Snow White”.   

     I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.   When the varnish was dry, I painted the base with a coat of Americana “Charcoal Grey”. When this was dry, I drybrushed the base with some of the “Mississippi Mud”, and then with some Apple Barrel “Rock Grey”; lastly I drybrushed it with a little Americana “Dove Grey”.
      Another overnight dry, and I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote”. When the “Dullcote” was dry, I went back and repainted the eyes with a little Americana “DuraClear Gloss” varnish.

      I’m really happy with how this turned out.  There’s still some annoying mold lines here and there, but I think the color scheme came out looking pretty good.

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Author: Chris Palmer

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