Category Archives: Wargaming

Doubling Down – Aztec Veteran Warriors from Wargames Foundry

Mark A. Morin

Readers of this blog have seen that I have been building a large force (Aztecs, Conquistadores, and others) for the 16th Century Spanish Conquest of Mesoamerica for the upcoming game of Buck Surdu’s Feudal Patrol™.  This game is exciting for me as I got to write the supplement for this period (“Civilizations Collide”).  I invested in a number of figures, and I have a need to push myself production-wise, without sacrificing quality.  I had two blisters each (AZ017 “Ixtlilxochitl’s Veteran Warriors” and AZ023 “Cuauhtli’s Veteran Warriors”) from Wargames Foundry Veteran Warriors.

Those Aztec names just roll off of your tongue so easily don’t they!  There were two Ixtlilxochitl’s – Ixtlilxochitl I was a Chichimec leader who fought against the Aztecs of the Triple Alliance, and Ixtlilxochitl II was his grandson who fought against Montezuma II.  So they were Aztecs – just not the ones that fought Cortes and the Conquistadores.  Cuauhtli means “Eagle”, but these so designated are not Eagle Warriors.  So, the names chosen by Wargames Foundry for the blisters sound Aztec, but are a bit off historically.  Still, the sculpts are great.

These metal figures were sculpted by Josef Ochmann and are 28mm in scale.  They are available in the US from Badger Games and from Wargames Foundry internationally.  Each of the two blister packs had 6 figures leaving me with 24 figures – with 12 of them being duplicates.  Similar to what I did with the Novice Warriors, I decided to differentiate them by both a color theme and by their shield designs.

As I had finished 24 figures previously, this project would effectively double my Aztecs – hence I am doubling down.

I also had a few technical goals here for this project.  One was to improve upon my painting of flesh tones on the models.  The second goal was to attempt to improve my shields by freehand painting historically accurate and authentic shield designs.  The last goal was to try better to use contrast medium to thin contrast paints on these figures.  As always, dear reader, you may be the judge and jury on that – and I am open to how well or how poorly you think I did here.  I find that sometimes when I am doing a platoon-sized project, I can easily overlook mistakes that would not be overlooked when doing a smaller group or even an individual figure.  Hopefully, I was able to catch any errors.

This will be a photo-heavy post.  I’ll share some WIP and some eye candy of the finished figures, along with the list of paints used here.  To do 24 figures at a time can make quite a list as you will see at the end of this blog post.

Figure Prep and Priming


1 mounted group for painting
The group here is mounted for painting.  I label the vials and the base bottoms, and I had a matrix for keeping the colors straight on all of these so as to make them realistic enough and to help with tabletop identification.  I needed this as historically each Aztec warrior’s uniform was unique to the status of that warrior, and based upon his individual accomplishments in battle, as opposed to the unit to which he belonged.  The elite units were the exception to this – these are of course veterans warriors, not elites.




2 Contrast painting blending
I must give a nod and thanks to my blog buddy Azazel’s suggestion as to how to use contrast medium, I did the above.  Basically I placed a drop of the contrast medium next to some of the contrast paint on the palette, and drew them together to get the shade I wanted.  I did this with flesh here (also used Gulliman here as the main flesh contrast paint instead of Fyrestarter) as well) – and it really was helpful.  Check out Azazel’s blog too – his stuff is really good!

There were a few problematic mold lines – most I caught and filed/fixed but some were on the figure’s faces like below.  To eradicate some mold lines, I would have had to nuke the face, which I did not want to do.  In the end, I think I minimized most of the more egregious mold lines.


The shields that came with the blisters was more than sufficient.  For the 24 figures, I needed an additional 18 shields for figures that did not have one.  I also had leftover shields from the Novice Warrior project that I saved – so I ended up painting 29 shields.  It was a good chance to try some new techniques and practice with some different Aztec designs (of which there are many luckily).  The most difficult type to paint were the type that were cloth-covered types with “crenelated” surfaces (as on those the paint flows into the shields’ low areas).  I also had to be careful when painting both sides so as to protect the previous coats of paint.  Using diluted satin varnish between side swapping helped to protect the work, but I still did need to go back over the shields and touch them up.  In the end, I was happy with the results and will save the extras for future use.


3 finished shields
My shields completed and ready to mount.  Thankfully, I got a shipment of Windsor & Newton brushes (0000) which was a must for my freehand work here!
6 finished!
The group shown here freshly off of their specimen jars.  They have been flocked and are ready for some eye candy shots.

Eye Candy

First, here are Ixtlilxochitl’s Veteran Warriors – there are 6 poses with two of each painted.  One was “blue-themed” and one was “red themed”, mainly to add to tabletop differentiation in addition to the shields.

Ixtlilxochitl’s Veteran Warrior 1 – armed with an atlatl


Ixtlilxochitl’s Veteran Warrior 2 – armed with a macuahuitl


Ixtlilxochitl’s Veteran Warrior 3 – armed with a cuauhololli


Ixtlilxochitl’s Veteran Warrior 4 – armed with a macuahuitl


Ixtlilxochitl’s Veteran Warrior 5 – armed with a macuahuitl


Ixtlilxochitl’s Veteran Warrior 6 – armed with a tepoztopilli


8 AZ017 Group shot - red themed
Here are the warriors from the “blue-themed” blister pack of Ixtlilxochitl’s Veteran Warriors assembled for battle.
7 AZ017 Group shot - blue themed
The “red-themed” blister pack  of Ixtlilxochitl’s Veteran Warriors defending the temple.
9 all AZ017 group
Ixtlilxochitl’s Veteran Warriors (all 12).

Secondly, here are Cuauhtli’s Veteran Warriors – there are also 6 poses with two of each painted.  Once again, I painted 6 as “blue-themed” and 6 as “red themed” in addition to the shields.

Cuauhtli’s Veteran Warrior 1 – armed with a macuahuitl


Cuauhtli’s Veteran Warrior 2 – armed with a macuahuitl


Cuauhtli’s Veteran Warrior 3 – armed with a macuahuitl


Cuauhtli’s Veteran Warrior 4 – armed with a macuahuitl


Cuauhtli’s Veteran Warrior 5 – armed with a tepoztopilli


Cuauhtli’s Veteran Warrior 6 – armed with a macuahuitl


7 AZ023 Group shot - blue themed
Cuauhtli’s Veteran Warriors in the “blue theme” moving out.
8 AZ023 Group shot - red themed
Cuauhtli’s Veteran Warriors in the “red theme” form up for battle.
9 AZ023 Group shot - all AZ023
All 12 Cuauhtli’s Veteran Warriors in the desert.

I enjoyed painting these – though I do not think that I will be doubling down with a project of 48 at a time – “a man’s gotta know his limitations” as Dirty Harry so eloquently said.

Here’s the 24 all together:

All AZ017 and AZ023

Oh yeah, I also just got a set of Feudal Patrol™ cards from Buck as a gift – try and guess which deck backings are my current favorites?

0 Feudal Patrol Decks

Hope that you enjoyed the post and the minis – if not, let me know – if yes, the same.

Until next time – take care and stay safe all!
Posts on Units for my 16th Century Spanish Conquest Supplement for Feudal Patrol™ – “Civilizations Collide”

  1. Doubling Down – Aztec Veteran Warriors (this post) – 24 Aztec Veteran Warriors
  2. Aztec Arrow Knights, Ral Partha circa 1988 – 6 Aztec Arrow Knights
  3. Aztec Eagle Warriors from Tin Soldier UK – 6 Aztec Eagle Knights
  4. Aztec Novice Warriors and a few Frinx – 12 Novice Warriors

Total figures to date for this project:  48 Aztecs

All Aztecs as of May 31, 2020

PAINTS, INKS, GLAZES, SHADES, WASHES, PIGMENTS, FLOCKING, GLUES AND MORE USED ON THESE AZTEC VETERAN WARRIORS:

  1. Gorilla Glue
  2. 1/8″ x 1″ Everbilt Fender Washers
  3. E6000 Epoxy
  4. Poster tack and plastic plates
  5. Vallejo “Surface Primer – White Primer”
  6. Vallejo “Flow Improver”
  7. Vallejo “Airbrush Thinner”
  8. Testors “Universal Acrylic Thinner”
  9. Vallejo Model Air “Weiss” (off-white)
  10. Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” (shade)
  11. Vallejo Model Color “Sunny Skin Tone”
  12. Vallejo Model Air “Weiss” (off-white)
  13. Vallejo Game Air “Black”
  14. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Volupus Pink”
  15. Vallejo Model Color “Dark Blue”
  16. Citadel Air “Evil Sunz Scarlet”
  17. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Warp Lightning”
  18. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Contrast Medium”
  19. Vallejo Game Air “Moon Yellow”
  20. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Basilicanum Grey”
  21. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Nazdreg Yellow”
  22. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Aggaros Dunes”
  23. Battlefront “Dark Leather”
  24. Battlefront “Wool Brown”
  25. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Wyldwood”
  26. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Aethermatic Blue”
  27. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Flesh Tearers Red”
  28. Battlefront “Sicily Yellow”
  29. Vallejo Mecha Color “Turquoise”
  30. Vallejo Game Air “Dead White”
  31. Vallejo Game Air “Escorpena Green”
  32. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Blood Angels Red”
  33. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Iyanden Yellow”
  34. Citadel “Yriel Yellow”
  35. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Apothecary White”
  36. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Ork Flesh”
  37. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Talassar Blue”
  38. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Militarum Green”
  39. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Creed Camo”
  40. Vallejo Model Color “Glossy Black”
  41. Vallejo Model Color “Light Flesh”
  42. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Gulliman Flesh”
  43. Army Painter “Flesh Wash” (wash)
  44. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Fyreslayer Flesh”
  45. Citadel “Balor Brown”
  46. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Skeleton Hordes”
  47. Citadel “Contrast Paint – Terradon Turquoise”
  48. Vallejo Game Air “Sun Yellow”
  49. P3 “Cygnar Blue Highlight”
  50. Vallejo Game Air “Electric Blue”
  51. Americana “Desert Sand”
  52. Vallejo Model Air “Matt Varnish”
  53. Elmer’s PVA Glue
  54. Army Painter “Brown Battlefields” (flocking)
  55. Vallejo “Dark Yellow Ochre” (pigment)
  56. Vallejo “Burnt Umber” (pigment)
  57. Vallejo Mecha Varnish “Matt Varnish”
  58. Army Painter “Grass Green” (flocking)

Thanks for looking!!

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More Figures Painted

Buck

I spent much of the weekend scanning about 3000 slides into digital files, but I did have a little time to do some painting in the early mornings before my wife got up. Here is what I accomplished.

Dr. Who Draconian and Sontaran in 40mm.
Rommel and Monty in the Western Desert.
From the other viewpoint.
Some Mediaeval or Fantasy civilians. I am not sure the manufacturer.
Sally 4th Sailors.
Sally 4th figures inspired by the High Road to China movie.
Pulp Figures woman in sidecar motorcycle from the recent Dangerous Dames Kickstarter.
Same figure, but dismounted.
SciFi cryogenic chambers. These were casualty pods for the ambulance version of the LARC vehicle for ACP 164.
Goblin riding a pteradactyl.
Another view of a goblin riding a pteradactyl.
A wide shot of the goblin riding a pteradactyl.

Tonight I need to wrap up the play test version of Wars of Ozz for the Kickstarter, so I am not sure I’ll complete any figures tonight.

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Deep Gnome Warrior: Bones 4 Darkreach figure

Chris Palmer

     I continued to work on the the Bones 4 Darkreach Expansion his past week, and painted the “Deep Gnome Warrior”.
     I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a brown-primed 7/8" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then placed the figure in my painting grip.

      I began by painting the figure entirely with Ceramcoat “Black”.  When the Black was dry, I drybrushed the figure with  Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”.  I then drybrushed the gnome with some Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver, and then passed over it with a lighter drybrush of Citadel "Mithril Silver”.

     I then painted his ears, and the area of his face within the visor with Americana “Sable Brown” and then his axe handle with Crafter’s Acrylic “Cinnamon Brown”.  After that, I painted his gauntlets and belt with Americana “Charcoal Grey”, his pouch with Americana “Terra Cotta”, and his scabbards with Apple Barrel “Burnt Sienna”.

     Next, I painted the bit of cloth in the opening in the back of his chain mail armor with Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”, his boots with Americana “Asphaltum”, and the little tassel on his pouch with Americana “Grey Sky”.   I let the figure dry for a while, and then I gave his face and ears a coat of Citadel “Reikland Fleshshade” wash. After that wash was dry, I gave his axe handle, gauntlets, pouch, belt, scabbards, fabric in the opening in his armor, tassel, and boots all a coat of Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash.  After this second coat of wash was dry, I painted his eyes, and then highlighted his skin with, first, the base “Sable Brown”, and then a bit of the “Sable Brown” with some Americana “Fawn” mixed in.   I also painted the axe head with Ceramcoat “Metallic Pewter”.

     I then highlighted the axe handle by drybrushing it with some Americana “Mississippi Mud”, and I highlighted the gauntlets and his boots with Nicole’s “Brown”. After that, I highlighed the pouch with a mix of the base “Terra Cotta”, and some Ceramcoat “Maple Sugar Tan”, and the tassel with some Americana “Snow White”.  Next, I highlighted the scabbards with some Crafter’s Acrylic “Orange Spice”, and the fabric in the opening in his chain mail with the base “Territorial Beige” mixed with a little of the “Fawn”.  I then went around and did spot highlights on the armor and weapons with the “Mithril Silver”.    Lastly, I painted the entire base with Americana “Mississippi Mud”.
      I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish. I then used some white glue to glue some fine sand to the base.  When the sand was dry, I painted it with a coat of the “Charcoal Grey”. When this was dry, I drybrushed the sand with the “Mississippi Mud”, and then with some Apple Barrel “Rock Grey”; lastly I drybrushed it with a little Americana “Dove Grey”.
      Another overnight dry, and I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote".

     This was a fun little figure to paint.  Doing the eyes within the visor was a real challenge, but I think it really adds to this figure to have him peering out of his helmet.   These gnome sculpts have a lot of character and I look forward to working on the rest of the set.

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Dark Elf Male Warrior: Bones 4 Darkreach Figure

Chris Palmer

     This past week I painted the “Dark Elf Male Warrior” from the Bones 4 Darkreach Expansion in my continuing effort to concentrate on working my way through this Expansion.
     I prepped the figure in the usual way, soaking it in a dish of water with a couple drops of dish-soap added, then giving it a light scrub with a soft toothbrush, and then rinsing and drying it.  I then glued the figure to a brown-primed 1" fender washer with Aleene’s Tacky glue, and then placed the figure in my painting grip.

     I began by painting all the armor with Ceramcoat “Black”.  When dry, I drybrushed the armor with Folk Art Color Shift “Black Flash”.  I then painted the face and hands with Reaper MSP “Dark Elf Skin”.

     I realized I wasn’t totally happy with the armor, so I went over it again with a light drybrush of Reaper MSP “Aged Pewter”.  I felt that made it look better.  Next, I painted his pants with Crafter’s Acrylic “Bright Blue”, and his tunic with Americana “Cranberry Wine”.  After that, I painted his cape with  Americana “Zinc”, and then his hair with Americana “Grey Sky”.
     I then painted his belt and scabbard with the “Black”, and his pouch with Americana “Charcoal Grey”.   I followed that with panting his crossbow with Americana “Asphaltum”, and his sword with Americana “Charcoal”.  I let the figure dry for a while, and then gave the whole thing a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash.
     When the wash was dry, I painted the eyes, then highlighted the face and hands with the base “Dark Elf Skin”, and some Reaper MSP “Dark Elf Highlight”.  I then highlighted his pants with a mix of the base “Bright Blue”, and some Crafter’s Acrylic “Cool Blue”.   After that I highlighted his tunic with te base “Cranberry Wine” mixed with some Crafter’s Acrylic “Tutti Frutti”. 

     Next, I highlighted the cape with a mix of the base “Zinc” and some of the “Grey Sky”.  I then added a decorative stripe along the bottom edge of the cape using the “Cranberry Wine” highlighted with mixing in some of the “Tutti Frutti”.  After that, I highlighted his hair with Americana “Snow White”.  I then did highlights on the belt and scabbard with some of the “Zinc”, and highlighted the pouch with Ceramcoat “Territorial Beige”.  I also used the Territorial Beige to highlight the crossbow.  I then painted the binding on the crossbow with Americana “Khaki Tan”.
     After that I painted the sword, belt buckle, and the metal parts of the dagger and crossbow with Folk Art Metallics “Gunmetal Grey”. I followed with giving them light highlights with some Ceramcoat “Metallic Silver”.  Lastly, I painted the entire base with Americana “Mississippi Mud”.
      I let the figure dry overnight and the next day I gave it a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish. I then used some white glue to glue some fine sand to the base.  When the sand was dry, I painted it with a coat of the “Charcoal Grey”. When this was dry, I drybrushed the sand with the “Mississippi Mud”, and then with some Apple Barrel “Rock Grey”; lastly I drybrushed it with a little Americana “Dove Grey”.
      Another overnight dry, and I sprayed the figure with Testor’s Dullcote".

     I’m really happy with how this figure turned out.  This was my first time using Reaper’s Dark Elf Skin Triad and I’m very happy with the outcome.

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Tanks!

Buck

Florida is starting to re-open in a big way, working to get life back to normal, so CINC Domicile is starting to push to get out of the house. The tremendous hobby throughput I have had during the plague panic will be slowing considerably in the next few weeks. But, this weekend, I completed a project that has been languishing for a while: science fiction tanks.

The project actually began many years ago by Greg. He has started to scratch build some GW-like vehicles from extra bits and plasticard. For some reason lost in the mists of time, he didn’t want to finish them, so I ended up with them. This weekend I broke out the plasticard and finished them. I also had a chance to get out the airbrush and do a little camo work; although, I am having a lot of trouble with water in the line, resulting in the occasional spatter of watery paint that screws up the paint job.

I started with some dollar store tanks that come in a bag with green army men. These are roughly M-48 or M-60 looking, but not quite. I cut off the gun and added a Company B Tesla cannon. I had a couple of bits left over from a Pig Iron kit that I used to put some sort of laser gun in the commander’s cupola.

Dollar store tank with Tesla cannon and lasers in the commander’s cupola. The other tanks I had built from dollar store bits, I painted green, so I decided to base this in Africa Corps yellow.
After the airbrush camo, the treads painted black and dry brushed with silver, and some detail painting.
The finished tanks with some Pig Iron infantrymen.
A closer view.

The second project was a smaller APC looking vehicle (I don’t know what it was supposed to be in 40k), but I added a surplus Sherman turret and some additional details. I also had some rockets that I thought would look cool on the sides.

The basic tank/APC/infantry fighting vehicle sprayed yellow.
A frontal look.
A closeup of the current with additional bits from Sally 4th (the ball is from an Albedo LARC), Pig Iron, and Dust.
I don’t know what these rockets are from, but I thought they would look cool on the side of the vehicle.
This decal is from a Korean War M-48 kit. That front armor plating was crying for some sort of decoration.
The finish product with some Pig Iron infantry.
Some Pig Iron commandos emerge from the hexagon rear hatch.

The last tank is really large. Again, I don’t know its intent in GW land, but I plan to use is as a lumber heavy tank or a tank transporter.

The behemoth with the base coat of Africa Corps yellow.
For scale, you see that the other tank fit complete on the top deck.
I had intended this as some sort of fixed defensive position, but it will make a good turret on the large tank.
The “turret” on the behemoth.
Nearly complete (front).
Nearly complete (rear).
Completed model with some female infantry (front).
Completed tank (rear). The back hatch was a leftover piece of a Pig Iron vehicle kit.
The turret removed, the tank makes a good firing platform for space worm infantry.
A closer look at the “turret” as a ground-mounted fixed defensive position.
From the other side.

During the previous week, I had been picking away at the last few figures in my project box. These included some Pulp Figures characters from monster movies.

Dr. Frankenstien, Frankenstein’s monster, and Bride of Frankenstein.
Lycanthropes.
Tiger lady and creepy girl (made more creepy by not painting her irises.
I think these are supposed to be from the Island of Dr. Moreau.
This figure was in the box. I think it must have been a freebie with an order from Pulp. It is clearly sculpted by Bob Murch.

To guaranteed more longevity, I needed to replenish the project boxes. As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, when I get back from a convention I usually immediately file, base, and prime the figures so that they are ready to paint when the muse strikes me or I have a couple of hours to spend. With the monster movie figures, I had pretty much emptied my project boxes, consisting of four 4L Really Useful Boxes. I was poking around and found a box of unpainted, unprepared figures that I must have just thrown in the box to get ready for the move. You can see that stack on the table getting ready to be prepared for painting. This weekend I filed, based, and primed this stack of lead and filled up three Really Useful Boxes. There are some odds and ends, like movie characters from Sally 4th, the recent Pulp Figures “dangerous dames” kickstarter, some dwarves that will eventually get duck heads, some Eureka French Revolution vignettes, and other odds and ends.

It wasn’t as productive a weekend as I would have liked. Next weekend, Friday through Sunday will be consumed with converting slides to digital files. I have about 30 carousels of slides that I have been meaning to convert. I found a place in town that will rent me the equipment to make high quality scans, so I’ll be cleaning slides and putting them into the machine while watching old black and white movies.

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Leonardo Gets Anti-Tank Guns

Buck

In a previous post, I showed the tanks inspired by Leonardo da Vinci that we plan to use in a What a Tanker! game in the near future. It was planned for Historicon in July, but Pennsylvania won’t allow gatherings of that size by July. As I continue to empty my box of primed and ready-to-paint figures, I came across these GW figures that are a combination of gifts from my buddy Greg and flea market finds. I thought I would paint them up for possible use in the da Vinci What a Tanker! game as anti-tank guns.

Two wagons carrying anti-tank riflemen.

I started by painting an old GW war wagon and a kit-bashed rat-powered vehicle. I don’t know what forces, sides, factions, or races these belong to in Warhammer, but they are cool looking vehicles. In the background are some Reaper Bones civilians watching the “parade” pass them by.

A closer look at the war wagon.
A view from the opposite side.
A closer view of the rat-powered wagon.

I am not 100% sure that Don will be able to use these in the What a Tanker! game. I figured these wagons could have the stats of an open-topped tank destroyer, like the ones built on Pz 38(t) chassis by the Germans in the early part of the war. As What a Tanker! is focused on tanks, I don’t even know if there are rules to anti-tank rifles, but I’m sure someone has come up with home rules for them that we can leverage.

In the background of this work-in-progress picture you can see a fun looking, sci-fi toy cannon that my dad found in eBay. I have three of them, and decided to repurpose one for da Vinci.
A work-in-progress shot of the repurposed tank, next to an original, green plastic one.

I started making the cannon, because some of the figures I was painting looked like artillery crewmen to me.

The completed gun and the gun crew.

This gun should be like an 88mm or at least a 76mm in the game, but again, we’ll see how Don wants to stat things our or whether he wants to use them at all.

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Cecil B. (for Buck) deMille Surdu

Buck

This weekend I recorded a number of short videos that I have stitched into three longer videos to share.

The first is a video of us conducting a virtual play test of Wars of Ozz via Zoom. This is a two-hour video that takes the game from start, through clear conclusion, to post-game kibitzing. See it here: https://youtu.be/jUIIVap_vR8

The second is a brief rules overview of Wars of Ozz. The production values are not the greatest, but they provide a reasonable overview of the activation, movement, shooting, and melee mechanics of the rules. I am, of course, biased, but I think they have a somewhat old school feel with streamlined and elegant mechanics. Games are quick and decisive. See it here: https://youtu.be/CDsfgoS32-Y

The last is a brief rules overview of Feudal Patrol™. I recently received the product quality cards for the Activation and Action decks. I used them in the filming of the videos. Again, the production values aren’t swell, but I think they provide a reasonable overview of how the game plays. See it here: https://youtu.be/SlpLbMdgVv8

I hope you find the videos informative, if not riveting.

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Hypothetical Hordes: Uprooted

Norman Dean This past weekend, I finished reading Naomi Novik’s Uprooted, about a girl who is taken from her village by the wizard who rules her valley. A large part of the story is the ongoing conflict between the protagonists’ homeland and a mysterious and insidious magical forest known as the Wood, which the wizard is guarding against. As I got to the end of the book, I found myself pondering the mix of forces on both sides. This seemed like a perfect opportunity to revive an occasional feature of this blog, where I take a look at building Hordes of the Things armies based on a particular book or other work of fiction.

POLNYA
The main setting of the story, Polnya seems to control a fair amount of territory besides the valley that contains The Wood. It has a significant border with its rival Rosya, which also borders on The Wood. (In fact, as the story goes on, it becomes apparent that the Wood is stoking the rivalry between the two nations for its own purposes.) The two countries have a bit more of an Eastern European flair than your typical fairy-tale fantasy countries. As the name suggests, Polnya seems based on Poland – it even has an monarch that seems to be elected (or at least acclaimed) by the ‘Magnati’ nobility, where as Rosya is presumably Russian. Cannons make an appearance, but I don’t recall any references to personal firearms, so a 15th or 16th-century level of technology seems appropriate. A Polnyan army could include:

  • A Hero General (Prince Marek) or a Knight General (if led by his more sensible brother Prince Sigmund)
  • A Magician (one or more of the court wizards like the Dragon or the Falcon.)
  • A Cleric (Either a priest with holy relics, or Agnieszka, whose magic seems to be notably different from that of the court wizards.)
  • Artillery (Early cannon, but firing enchanted cannonballs.)
  • Knights and/or Riders (Heavy or light Polish-style cavalry, though there’s no mention of anything like the famous winged hussars.)
  • Spears (Infantry armed with pikes.)
  • Blades (Infantry armed with axes for venturing into the Wood.)
  • Hordes (Peasants with torches and agricultural implements.)
The stronghold could either be the Dragon’s mysterious tower on the edge of the Wood (remnant of an earlier Lost Age) or a Eastern European city wall and gate. A Rosyan army would probably be quite similar, though we learn very little about the personalities on the other side of the border.
THE WOOD
The Wood had lain dormant in its valley for a very long time, ever since it destroyed a previous civilization, of which the Dragon’s tower seems to be the last remnant. At some point, the ancestors of the Polnyans and Rosyans moved into the valley, and the Wood awoke again, its hatred for humanity as strong as ever. Fire and salt can hold it at bay, and powerful magic can drive it back for a little while, but the Wood is always growing, always encroaching on the settled lands. Weird creatures and strange, twisted animals live in the Wood, but the greatest threat is corruption – contact with any part of the Wood, even the drifting clouds of pollen, can turn a person into its tool. Forces of the Wood might include:
  • A Magician General (The Wood-queen – a humanoid figure covered in bark and leaves.)
  • Behemoths (Large magical creatures like chimeras or hydras.)
  • Beasts (Corrupted animals such as wolves or cattle.)
  • Warbands (Stick-like Walkers, who snatch the unwary and carry them into the Wood.)
  • Knights or Blades (Giant silvery mantises that guard the heart-trees.)
  • Hordes (Humans in an early stage of corruption.)
  • Lurkers (Grasping tree branches, brambles, pit traps, sudden betrayals by fellow soldiers who have let their guard down – the Wood is full of dangers.)
  • Any of the Polnyan elements, being used as pawns of the Wood.
The stronghold could be a heart-tree with silver bark and sickeningly sweet golden fruit, either deep in the Wood or planted in an abandoned village.
If you wanted to make the game more of a challenge for the Polnyans, you could also develop some scenario-specific rules. If the Wood is the defender, much of the table should be bad going – it is a forest, after all, and those Lurkers need somewhere to deploy. It might also be appropriate for the Wood not to have a General – the Wood-queen doesn’t really show up in physical form until near the end of the story. And finally, it might be interesting to have the Wood take control of elements that are attacking it – either by letting it deploy Polnyan elements that were destroyed in combat, or perhaps (more insidiously) ones that merely came in contact with elements of the Wood’s.
All in all, these armies would be much more feasible than some of my previous Hypothetical Hordes musings. There are plenty of historical figures who could be used for the Polnyans, and various animals and plant-creatures are available for the Wood. I’m almost tempted to see what I could podge together from what I have on hand already…

from Junkyard Planet http://junkyardplanet.blogspot.com/2020/05/hypothetical-hordes-uprooted.html
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Killer Fungi: Bones 4 Darkreach Figure

Chris Palmer

     This past week I painted the two translucent “Killer Fungi” from the Bones 4 Darkreach Expansion.     I had been holding these back since I painted the rest of the Darkreach mushrooms, in hopes that I could figure out some way to illuminate them, without having to include a huge base to hide the battery & electronics; but I finally abandoned that plan because I was tired of them sitting in my waiting-to-be-painted shelf.   This also led me to decide to start making a concerted effort to work my way through the remainder of my Darkreach figures since I had painted a lot of them already.

     I began by giving both the mushrooms a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.  When dry, I gave the one on the left a coat of Citadel “Nuln Oil” wash, and the one on the right a coat of thinned Iron Wind Metals “Dark Blue” ink.    
     When the washes were dry, I drybrushed the one on the left with Reaper MSP Bones “Dungeon Slime”.  I then painted the underside of the cap, and the tentacles on the righthand one with Crafter’s Acrylic “Purple Passion”.  While the tentacles were still wet, I blended Americana “Cranberry Wine” in on the ends of the tentacles
I realized I couldn’t really paint the roots of the mushrooms without painting the bases first, so I took the time at this point to paint the bases on both the mushrooms with Americana “Mississippi Mud”.   I then painted the bottom of the domed mushroom with Apple Barrel “Apple Lavender”, and also used the color to drybrush the top.   While that dried, I used some Citadel “Agrax Earthshade” wash to apply a coat to the underside and roots of the conical mushroom.   I then went back and used the “Nuln Oil” wash to give a coat to the tentacles, underside, and roots of the domed mushroom.

     When the washes were dry, I drybrushed the conical one with some Americana “Margarita” to help it pop.  I then drybrushed the domed one’s tentacles, underside, and roots with some of the base “Apple Lavender"  mixed with some Reaper MSP "Breast Cancer Awareness Pink”.   After that, I highlighted the ends of the domed mushroom’s tentacles with some Ceramcoat “Opaque Red”.
      I let the mushrooms dry overnight and the next day I gave them and their bases a coat of Americana “DuraClear Matte” varnish.

     I’m pretty happy with these two fungi.  I’m glad I went ahead and got them finished up.

via All Bones About It http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2020/05/killer-fungi-bones-4-darkreach-figure.html
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Another COVID Hobby Weekend

Buck

The focus of this weekend was another Wars of Ozz play test game over Zoom. Chris and Greg were the opponents, and I was the game master. This time we recorded the entire game, and I have posted a video on YouTube. See the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUIIVap_vR8 This is a full, three-turn game that reached a decisive conclusion. Three turns doesn’t sound like a lot, but since every unit activates twice per turn and since you do a lot of things during your opponent’s activation, it feels like a lot more than three turns of activity occur in three turns.

This is the table setup for the game after the first turn, as I recall. I had the camera on my MacBook and the camera on my phone both looking at the table from different angles. In this picture you see the Munchkins advancing on their left flank against the Quadling cavalry unit (using a Munchkin battery as a substitute).
A Quadling unit is routing in the center while the Munchkins continue to advance. At this point, it looked like it was going to be a clear Munchkin victory — but then Chris’ dice got in the way.
A view from the opposite direction.

After the game ended, I stitched together the video that Chris recorded and the video that I recorded to make the video that I posted on YouTube.

Before we started the game, while I had the table setup, I also filmed a short rules tutorial video that I posted to YouTube. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDsfgoS32-Y The production values are poor, and I will have to reshoot them later for the Kickstarter, but this will give folks an idea of how the game works.

After replacing all the door handles in the house to satisfy CINC Domicile, and three hours of work for work, I did have a chance to do a little painting on Sunday.

Three regiments of Prussian Dragoons for Fate of Battle.

I finished three regiments of 10mm Prussian dragoons that I had sitting around primed and ready to paint for a couple of years. All of the 10mm Napoleonic figures in my backlog are painted and ready for action. With my focus on Combat Patrol, Feudal Patrol, and Wars of Ozz the past couple of years, Dave has used my 10mm Napoleonic more than I have.

Some Reaper Bones figures I finished on Sunday and some GW figures I started to paint for our Leonardo DaVinci What a Tanker! game (that would have been run at Historicon in July).

I am really scraping the bottom of the barrel to find things to paint after two months of government-forced captivity. I don’t enjoy painting the early Bones figures at all, but these were sitting in the project box calling to me. (When I get new figures, I typically file, prime, and base them immediately so that they are ready to paint when the muse strikes me. They go into one of four 4L Really Useful Boxes, called my “project boxes.”) I tried the contrast paints that worked so well on the Wars of Ozz figures, but there is something about the mushy detail on the early Bones figures that made them turn out poorly. Anyway, they are just waiting for flocking to be “done.” I think these GW figures will be fun to paint, and I intend them to be very colorful to go along with the tanks I built (see previous post). These really won’t have a role in the What a Tanker! Leonardo DaVinci game, but they will look good on the table. This week I’ll plink at these figures a little each night and hopefully finish them next weekend. Then I have about 90 Vikings and Anglo Danes to assemble and paint.

from Buck’s Blog http://bucksurdu.com/blog/?p=9751
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